About "Restocking Fees"

I will try to keep this simple.  Sometimes you take a risk, and it doesn't work out.  I have a 42" DLP HD television.  It has performed flawlessly since I have bought it around 5 years ago.  When I bought it, I was told that there was a bulb inside that was user replaceable, and that it would last about 8,000 hours of use.  The TV worked up until 3 weeks ago, when a loud buzzing noise came out of the set, along with a diminished picture.  I thought one of the fans went out, so I pulled the lamp (which is in a plastic housing) out of the TV to check if I could see anything wrong.  There were 4 screws to remove the cover, and one screw that retained the lamp housing.  I slid out the lamp assembly.  I saw nothing.  I put the lamp back in, and the noise was still there.  I checked it out on the internet and the consensus is that a moving part in the set, called the color wheel, had gone bad.  This little unit spins at very high rpms (some said up to 11,000 rpms) and it had broken.  There were tutorials on how to replace the wheel, but I saw various prices on the wheels, a couple of different types, and found that several manufacturers had made these sets, and . . . they were all constructed differently.  So no tutorial was going to prepare me for what I would find if my set was different than the one I saw on youtube.

Then I saw the comments of those who were successful, and those who were not.  There were more in the latter than the former, so I decided to call around and see who would repair my TV.  I got prices high and low.  I found a guy who does a lot of them as he is a warranty tech for these brands.  He said it was a color wheel without seeing it, and it would cost $310.00, installed (+ tax).  I asked him to order the wheel, and he said it would take a week.  He came out and replaced the wheel, which had shrapnelled inside its little housing.  He replaced it with a newer wheel with "air bearings" that is supposed to last a lot longer.  However, when he put it back together, the wheel worked, but the lamp didn't.  "How much for the lamp?" I asked, knowing the lamp had been living on borrowed time.  He said $229.00, + tax.  It would take another week to get an original equipment lamp.  I knew I could change out the lamp myself, and he agreed.  I used my Visa card and ordered what was supposed to be a genuine OEM lamp from an internet company for $179, including free 2-day air shipping with a one-year guarantee.  What could be better?  The lamp came when it was supposed to, and I carefully took it out of the package with rubber gloves on and inserted in the tv.  I slid it in and pushed it home.  I heard a click as I tightened the screw to lock it in place.  I put on the cover, correctly tripping the safety switch, and put in the 4 retaining screws.  I plugged in the TV and pressed the "on" button on the set.  I looked and it was . . . dark.  The bulb did not light.  Fast forward to today.  I called the repair guy who came back out and checked it out.  It was the wrong lamp, not OEM, and that click I heard on installation was the lamp breaking the male plug from the ballast that fits into the mating socket in the bulb.  The ballast is $150.00, the bulb is wrong and has to go back, and the repair guy can get the right bulb for $229.00 plus tax, in another week or two.  I called the lamp outfit and told them the story.  They said they will take the lamp back and refund my money, but there is a 15% restocking fee.  I told them I ordered the right bulb for my set by model number, and I didn't get a bulb that fit.  The representative said that there was still a restocking fee.  I said, OK, let's play it this way.  I will keep the lamp until they give me a full refund, and I will call Visa and put a stop on their payment until this is straightened out.  "There is no need to do that, sir," he said.  "I will talk to my boss and see what can be done."  He came back and said that I should repackage the lamp in the original box and they would credit me for the full amount and they would pay for the shipping.  I just saved about $40.00 through negotiation and the power of a credit card.  Whoopee!  The repair guy took pity on me and said he had a ballast that he wasn't going to charge me for (to replace the one I broke), so I saved $150 there.  On the downside, I took a gamble and opted to fix a 42" 5-year-old obsolete TV, and let's total what it cost me:   around $336 for the color wheel (with tax), and around $249 for the lamp and I have close to $585 in my old set.  If I added about $15, I could have gotten a new 42" LCD set with a one-year guarantee.  I also have been without my TV for 3 weeks, and it still isn't working yet.  I have learned a lesson here.  I hope I am smarter and luckier next time.

I leased a new car today!

I promised to update the quest for a new car, and here it is.  I think I made a good deal.  Time will tell.

I had decided to look at other makes and models besides the VW GTI.  I even looked at a 2011 VW CC.  I liked it among the best of the cars I drove.  It was close to my 2007 Passat in size, and features.  I liked it a lot, except I couldn't wrap myself around the price.  The best deal I could get on it was $359 per month plus tax on a 3-year lease.  That would put it really close to $390/mo.  It gets great mileage, too, but calls for premium fuel, adding 20¢ per gallon to the mix (just like my Passat).  That same dealer offered me a 4-door GTI with auto trans (the awesome DSG) for around $349 per month.  GTIs are in short supply, and are really popular.

I decided to look at several other options:  The V6 Nissan Altima, the new Chevy Cruze, the Nissan Juke, and the Hyundai Sonata/Kia Optima Turbo models.  I didn't look at the Subaru WRX, as it is stick-shift only, and the gas mileage is not so ay-ay-ay.

I decided to drive each turbo model and see how they performed.  I went to a Nissan dealer and looked at the Juke.  It just didn't fit my other needs for room, etc., so I just passed on it.  I looked at the Altima, but the trunk opening looked a bit tight to get my work equipment into, even with a fair sized trunk.  Also, the Passat I had was the champ at putting my equipment through the hole from the trunk to the passenger compartment, with the seat folded down.  Everything else with the exception of the CC has a tighter orifice in the rear seat bulkhead.  Makes it tough to put in the 6-ft ladder.

Anyway, I got a quote on the V6 Altima of $300 plus tax, no down payment.  I then went and drove the Hyundai Turbo Sonata at an out-of-town dealership.  It had more advertised horsepower than any of the other cars (274-hp) and the best mileage (33mpg hwy on regular fuel).  While it felt strong, it was wet out and the roads crowded, so I didn't know if I was that impressed.  The dealer only had the one turbo, and told me I couldn't order a car from Hyundai.  I didn't want that one as it had a sunroof and my wife's head sticks into the opening.  I usually look for cars with no sunroof.  I hardly used the only one I ever had (and I lived in So Cal), she doesn't quite fit, and I hate paying extra for something I don't want or need.  Also, I live in Washington State, where the only requirement to be a weather predictor is to say rain or chance of rain.  It even rains here when it is not supposed to.

I told the dealer to call me if he gets a turbo in without a sunroof.  I then went and looked at the Hyundai's sibling, the Kia Optima.  The dealer didn't have many, and the turbos aren't available yet.  The Kia Optima is one sharp car.  And if I wasn't so bent on a turbo, it would have been on the short list of winners.

I went and drove a turbo Chevy Cruze.  A nice, well-built little car.  The turbo in this car was unimpressive.  The salesman pretty much indicated the lease deals would not be that impressive, either.

I was pretty much on board with getting the GTI, being one of the most impressive vehicles, along with that German car feel.  I had called all over and called the local dealer for Hyundai and told them if they got any turbos in, to give me a call.  I got a call a few nights ago, and they said they got in 3 Sonata Turbos, and one of them had no sunroof!  I went over to the dealer that night.  Unfortunately, the car had just been unloaded from the truck, and as a result, hadn't been safety-checked and we weren't allowed to drive it.  My wife was a little put out as she went with me to test-drive it, and we weren't told that till we got there.  I called my buddy and asked if he would like to go with me for a test-drive the next day.  He said yes, and he is a dyed-in-the-wool GTI fan.

They had prepped the car and washed it, etc.  The salesman handed us the key and asked that we not try out the airbag operation and asked us not to put more than 20 miles on the car.  We took it to the freeway.  It is undoubtedly the fastest car I have driven in a long time, at least since I got rid of my 2005 Altima V6.  It is a screamer.  It handles quite well, with taut suspension and 18-inch tires.  It rides solid, though with quite a bit of tire noise, something I had noted during the times I had driven the GTI.  But the Hyundai Sonata SE Turbo is quite a car.  I determined I would lease it if I can get a real deal.  Even my buddy was impressed.

I went back today to talk turkey.  My wife came along and drove it.  They gave me a quote of $367/mo including tax on a 3-year lease.  This car has a generous warranty, with 5-year coverage on almost everything.  I would have taken a 4-year lease, but it is not offered.  I told them that was out of my range.  They wanted to know what I wanted to pay.  They usually play quite a game with you.  They want you to bond with the car so you'll jump at the chance to drive it away, at any price.  They also want you to invest time so you'll be more amenable.  I turn the tables on them.  I make 'em come back a few more times with quotes.  Finally, I told them I would take the car if I could have it for $300 + tax/mo.  The sales manager comes back with something like $308 + tax.  I said no.  He almost threw a conniption.  He crushed the paper in his hands, and asked me to reconsider.  I sat there mulling it over.  Now, my leased Passat plays into this.  They have already determined they want it.  It has only 21,000 miles on it, and it is immaculate.  This actually gives me equity in a leased car.  Because I got such a low price on it when I leased it, it has a plus value for me.  He came back and said to me that he would see if he could squeeze another couple of hundred dollars out of the Passat.  A little while later, he came back and told me that I had a deal.  $299 + tax, and I had to make the first month's payment now.  I said yes.  I took my stuff out of the Passat, and transferred it to my new Hyundai, and I drove it home tonight.

I had saved something like $41/month by not taking the first quote they offered.  I saved $492 per year, and $1,476 over the lease term.  That is the fruit of negotiation.  Being willing to walk away if you don't get what you reasonably want.

To sum it up:  If you have good credit, paid a low price on your previous ride, take good care of it, and keep the mileage low, you, too, can get a hell of a deal.  I just got a very rare car, and got it at a run-of-the-mill price.  It is a great-looking car with mag wheels, and a top of the model car at that.  And, I leased it cheap enough to make it easier again next time.  I hope you can get a good deal, too.  

Here we go again - It's time for the same old dance, with a new twist.

Well, it is that time again. My current lease on my 2007 VW Passat sedan will be coming to an end in May. New cars are starting to roll out, and not all of them fill my needs. Most either don't have a big enough trunk or don't have a big enough opening from the trunk into the passenger compartment to accommodate my equipment for my work. My current vehicle filled that very well as I could load a 6-ft ladder and the rest of my equipment and it would fit. The Passat gave me great handling, seating, carrying capacity, and the turbo 4 had great gas mileage and power. Alas, in 2011, the Passat will no longer be offered. Volkswagen will offer an enlarged Jetta to replace the Passat. It will come out at the end of September, but no turbo is offered at this writing. It is supposed to be offered next spring, and I will be out of my current lease by then, so the 2011 Jetta won't be considered at this time.


So, I am forced to adapt to something else. I went to the VW dealer in my town, not known for stellar deals and talked to a salesman there. He did not show me any other models. He had no 2010 Passats on the lot, and I probably won't get as good a deal on them if he did. Current year leases, under normal circumstances will get the best prices.


I went to the dealer in the next town over and started the dance anew.  I started by looking at the 2010 Tiguan.  It had a $40K sticker price and would not fit the bill of a sub-$300 lease payment.  Also, the high mileage rating is 24 mpg, way below my current Passat at 30.  So, an automatic pass. 

I then thought about either the current Jetta (2010) or a GTI (2010 or 2011) with a Turbo and DSG Auto stick shift trans.  We sat in a current Jetta and although my wife fits in the front seats, she hits her head on the ceiling in the back seats.  We took a 2011 GTI for a ride and it handles great, and has lots of power.  My wife fits front and back.  It is offered in both a two- and four-door configuration.  Even though the length of the car is the same for both models, the four-door will work better for me.  However, that adds $2k to the price of the car, and cuts one mile off the higher mileage (increased weight).  I will not be able to put a 6-ft ladder in this car.  I also sometimes use a 4-ft ladder, and that will fit.  It looks to have a great deal of carrying capacity, and although it is hard to hide my equipment in the car, it offers a much larger opening to put things in.

I told the salesperson I would buy (lease) the four-door GTI, either 2010 or 2011 (really the same car), for a maximum of $250/mo on a 36 mo lease before taxes with no down payment.  My wife leased a 2008 Passat from them in Nov 2007 for $247!  The salesperson did the old dance of going to her manager and coming back with a price of $357/mo + tax.  I told her no, and said it was $250 or less per month, or no sale.  She came back and said no deal.  We left.

I have an 8-month window.  A long time-frame.  Lots of dealers to choose from.  I will keep you posted as I work to get the car I want for the price I want to pay. 

A 20,000-mile service for How Much?

One of our cars got serviced yesterday.  That in itself is not noteworthy, except that I had to go back to the dealership, for the umpteenth time to get something taken care of that was missed on the original appointment.


I called the dealership.  I asked for a certain service writer.  (Always make friends with your service writer, service manager, and/or technician.  It helps when you want to fudge a bit.)  I asked about a 20,000-mile service.  First, the dealership service and the factory book are different in their interpretation of these maintenance services.  The dealership needs to make money, so they tack on some extras that boost the cost of the service.  My guy at the dealership knows that I am cheap, and that my background is in auto repair.  He told me that their 20,000-mile service is around $300.00.  I told him that wasn't going to happen.  First, I lease my car, so I don't care what happens to it once I turn my key in at the end of the lease.  According to the factory, I only need to maintain the car to what their book says.  It called for an oil and filter change, tire rotation, and replacing the air filter.  I went for the oil and filter part, the tire rotation, and asked that the air filter be blown out and reinstalled, as long as it wasn't wasted.  My guy wrote it up as a 20K service and stamped the book, but I didn't get the full service.  A lot of it is inspect this and inspect that.  It fixes nothing and if any of those things are wrong, warranty will probably cover it.  Besides, what is an inspection?  It is usually a visual scan of a part or fluid.  To be truthful, even the most diligent mechanics know it is the factory's way of covering their butt if something fails and somebody winds up injured or dead, so that's why they say to check the brake fluid, or even replace it at this low mileage.  To make a long story short, I brought my own synthetic oil.  The dealership charges around $10 per quart, and I have found a place to buy synthetic oil that meets the car manufacturer's specs exactly, for $5.19 per quart.  So I got an oil filter from the dealership, service, and a tire rotation.  They did not replace the air filter, saving me $20.00.  Total cost on a $300.00 service was around $62.00 (plus what I paid for the oil at the parts store bringing it to less than $85.00 + tax).


Now, you may ask, why did I have to take the car back to the dealership?  Because the tech who rotated the tires did not count the plastic plugs that fit over the lug bolts when he removed them, and only put 19 of the 20 back on.  One of them got lost.  I went to a tire garage after the service was done as one of my tires had a nail in it, and while that was getting repaired, one of the tire guys pointed out the plastic plug was missing on the other side of the car.  I called my friend, the service writer, and he told the tech to look for it.  They found it outside.


Sometimes you gotta put up with some aggravation to get a good price. 

Saving Moola on a Computer Purchase

I haven't written to this blog in a while, so it is time for an update. Also, I have made a major purchase, and saved some money using my own methods, so they still work.

I have been using the same computer for the last 7 years, and it was time for a change. The reasons were many. Last year we switched from 12-bit, 10.2-megapixel cameras to 14-bit, 12.3-megapixel cameras. The resulting compressed raw file size went up another 50% with this change from around 10 megabytes to around 15 megabytes. That means that every two images we shoot now are as big as three images from our old cameras, and that two images take as long to process in my raw editor, Nikon Capture NX2 and also Photoshop, as did 3 images from the old cameras. Pair that with the fact that my version of Windows XP Home Edition could not use more than 3-gigabytes of ram, and you have a recipe for slow running and the "Sorry, but there is not enough memory to save the image" message coming up quite frequently on the screen. That means a 4-minute reboot to clear the memory.

My clients are almost invariably telling me that I should take my time working on their images, but in a parallel universe from two weeks ago, as they not only needed it yesterday, they needed it before yesterday! Many times we have come back from a shoot and have to process 300 or more images over the weekend to be uploaded on Monday. Admittedly, there are duplicate images, but I have to open all the images in case one is better than another. I have one client who needs all the images to be completely finished (including retouching) before they peruse them - all images are to be vertical and in black and white. This means that each and every image is processed twice: first in color to get a great color image (sometimes for later use for stock) and then in Photoshop in black and white and some retouching and tweaking.

I have to buy a new camera, software, or computer equipment prior to the time I need it as there is setup time, familiarization time, and testing to be done before I feel comfortable with the equipment, and can make it work efficiently.

And so, with mild trepidation, my partner and I decided it was time to bite the bullet and buy a new computer. Now, what to buy? I haven't bought a new computer in 7 years. I bought one of the most powerful computers I could find back around 2003, because it has to not be considered obsolete for at least 3 - 4 years. Programs and operating systems get bigger and fatter and do more with every new iteration. The system has to be powerful enough to last that long to justify what is paid for it. I want to be the slowest part of my system, instead of waiting interminable times to open, edit, render, and save those big image files. I need something of a powerful gaming computer to do what I think it should do.

And so, I came to read a lot online about the most powerful processors, system busses, available memory, and so forth. Now, I have a 3.06 GHZ Pentium 4 processor in my current computer with a total of 4-gigs of memory (of which XP only sees 3 gigs). I need something way faster as this unit ain't cuttin' it. I settle on the Intel i7-950 processor and 12 gigs of ram, with two 1-terrabyte hard drives. I look around and price several units, both from name-brand suppliers and boutique outfits. I look at HP, and they pretty much have what I am looking for. They are priced around $2K without a monitor. I then go to Dell's site (where I bought my last 4 computers), and they start at a lower base price. The base processor in this class is the Intel i7-920. Dell doesn't offer the the i7-950 at all. They only offer two i7 processors: the 920, and the 975 Extreme. But on the website, it says that if you want the 975, add $1,035 to the base price. With HP, who also starts with the 920, for $300 more you can get the 950 and for $300 additional, you can get the 975! They only have a $600 spread between the least expensive and the most expensive at HP. Also, further pricing on Dell's unit adds about $500 to bring it in parity with the HP unit.

Boutique outfits are no better and, in some instances, way more expensive than Dell. Admittedly, these are generally considered gamer's units, and can have overclocked processors, lights in the chassis with a clear window to see the inner workings, and great looking cases. I just need something fast, quiet, and powerful that can process images quickly, and will be reliable for the long haul. Flashiness isn't needed here. I don't play games with my computer.

I called my local computer boutique. I hoped they could build me a box that would be comparable to the HP unit and not cost as much. I called them several times on a Saturday. I got voicemail messages that sales wasn't there, and I should leave a message. I knew they were open on Saturday. If anyone should be there it should be the sales people, or how would they make any money? After many tries, someone finally answered the phone. He was in sales. He asked me to wait while he went to his computer to figure out a price. He didn't pick up after that. I called back, doing the voicemail game again. Finally, I hit the button for tech support, and got a real live human being. He said he could get me a price. I gave him the parameters from the HP printout. He took my number and a little later he got back to me. I had told him what I would get from HP and how much it cost. He said they were prepared to match the price of HP, but only if I would take the i7-920 processor instead of the 950. He said there wasn't much difference. Well, there is a $300 difference at HP and it isn't the fastest processor they make. I was not convinced. I told him I didn't want them to vary from the specs I gave him. He went to talk to his manager. Now, HP offered 3-year in-home repair for $112.00 on this unit, a great price, and also free 2-day shipping. He got back to me. He was $25.00 less than HP, but I had to bring the computer in for repairs, and I would be picking it up as they are 5 miles away from me. With HP, I get a 21-day, no questions asked return for full refund policy, plus a guarantee of partial refund should they price this same unit cheaper in the next 21 days. I still felt the HP deal was better, and my partner concurred. I called HP and asked them if they could lower the price further, and they said there was a coupon they could use, and lowered the price a further $50.00! I purchased the unit from HP.

One other note: The local boutique did not answer the phone due to a poor phone system, and not enough personnel on hand to handle sales. How easy do you think it will be to get someone on the phone, let alone a warranty repair done after the buying part is over? HP had a human answer the phone each time I called (twice). The local boutique made me wait through a message each time that they had changed locations - something that happened months ago.

My gut told me that HP was a better deal. I still think so.

Text messaging or how to let your cell phone company take a lot of your money.

Want to save some bucks? If you do, why the *.!#@ do you still have text messaging working on your phone? Do we really need text messaging?

A while back, I started getting what amounted to spam on my Verizon phone. It was from people I don't know. Some was in Spanish - I only speak English. I thought if I don't open it and just erase it, there was no charge. I was wrong! It started to show up on my bill. I was billed $1.15 for text messaging, even though I sent no messages, and didn't even read any messages. I called Verizon. They said they would remove the charges if I wanted to block text messaging and sending pictures. I told them that not only would I do that, but so would my wife. Why do I (or most people) really need text messaging? Especially if I have to pay for the spam I get? I got a cell phone to make voice calls. To call a client and tell him I am lost and can't find the coffee shop where I was supposed to meet him. To call my wife if I am late, and don't want her to worry about me. I don't need the damn thing to be my entertainment system!

If I want to send an email, I have a computer. Email is free, it comes with my Internet Access. At least I don't have to pay for the spam I get. If I want to send an image, I can send a proper, large-sized image over my computer. Do my friends really need to see that strange car right after I do? I can take the image with my phone, and then take it home. My friends can wait until I get home and use my computer. I can send the picture for free on my computer. Wise up everybody. We aren't all twelve years old anymore. I wouldn't text my stock broker and say BY SBUX @ 18! I would call and say, "Buy Starbucks at $18.00." At least I know who is getting the call, and they know who is calling them with our voices. Or I can go to my broker's website and do it online. Typing with my thumbs is not productive for me.

Figure out how much texting is costing you, and extrapolate what it will cost you in the long run. It is more expensive than you think. Get rid of it.

Car leases, and what about those gift cards?

It is the end of the year, and I haven't posted for a while. I have leased 2 new cars in the months since my last post, and I think it is time to share a little knowledge. I got the first deal on "my" car. I jumped out of my lease on my 2005 Nissan Altima V6 about 4 months early, as I got a deal on a new 2007 VW Passat I could not pass up. First off, for most leases, the dealers add a payment on the end of the lease for those who turn in their cars and walk away. This is usually to the tune of $350.00. The idea is that if you don't lease another car from them, buy your car, or another from them, they will be able to make a parting gift to themselves of your money. You don't have to pay this amount by trading the car to another dealer of another brand of car, it turns out. The VW dealer in this case was more than happy to take the Nissan in trade, as the car had only 13,000 miles on it, was in perfect condition, and I actually had "equity" in a leased car, as I owed less than it was worth. It didn't cost me anything to trade it in, and enhanced my position in the deal to get the new car. I won't go into it now how to negotiate the best deal on a lease, but VW had something called "Loyalty Cash" going on at the time, which means that if you have a VW in the immediate family (in this case, my wife's leased 2004 Passat), I qualified for $1,500.00 cash toward the purchase, or lease of my new car. On a lease, that means that about $45.00 less per month, in payments on the lease. I negotiated the lease down to an amazing total payment of $287.00 per month, including state tax, with nothing down, for the next 4 years (the length of VW's warranty). The deal included the first payment on the lease! This is not a stripped-down model. It is silver with a black leatherette interior, radio and CD player, Tiptronic auto trans, 200-hp turbo 4, mag wheels, A.C. and "bun warmers." Though not as fast as the Nissan V6, the turbo 4 is no slouch.

Well, even though I thought I got a fantastic deal, last month I got my wife to trade out of her beloved 2004 Passat, for an even better deal on a new white 2008 Passat. It has the same equipment (and more additional equipment) as my car does, but we got it for even less than I am paying. VW had the loyalty cash available again, only this time, it was for $2,000.00. Her payments are $269.00 per month for 4 years, nothing down, and the first payment is made for us.

If you would like to know how I negotiated such good deals on these cars, email me at mercsuv@hotmail.com. I am selling this information as it will save you big bucks on your next car lease or purchase. Each of the above cars had an MSRP of over $25,000.

Some words on car leasing:

If you have a business, you can write off the car lease against your federal taxes to the percentage that you use the car in your business. This allows me to have a better car than I can possibly afford if I purchased it.

I haven't paid for a car repair since 1999. I haven't put enough miles on any of the cars to need tires or brakes. All the cars have been in warranty as long as the lease term. Gasoline, tires, maintenance, brakes, and wipers are all that I have to pay for on these cars besides the payments. So all I have paid for is the payments, gas, maintenance, and the occasional wiper blade. Everything else has been covered. No surprises. If the transmission or engine blows up, I can take it to the dealer, and say "Fix it!" I don't care what it costs, as it is on warranty. And if they keep the car too long, I can usually get them to throw in a free loaner or rental car, until my car is ready.

Lastly, let me say a word about gift cards: WHAT WERE YOU THINKING? Why give someone a gift card? Cash does the same thing, never expires or loses value the way the cards do. Cash doesn't lock someone into a particular store, or have time limits. Do you think the person you are giving it to thinks you thought more of them than if you gave them cash? You didn't even need to go to the store, you could have ordered it online. What if the person you gave that Sears card to needs cash to buy food? What good is a gift card to that person. I can't understand the idea that I need to entrust Sears or another huge retailer with my money, in the hope you will use the card I gave you before it expires. The other thing the retailer hopes is the card is not enough money to buy something and your recipient needs to pony up extra money to purchase something. The retailer doesn't even list the card as a sale, but rather waits until the card is spent to show that as a sale. You and I couldn't even get away with that. They get all the money spent on the card. If the card expires, or isn't used, don't they get to keep all that as profit, or money they are holding? It is already out of your pocket! If you want to give me present, give me CASH.

Have a Happy New Year.